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How To Grade Down A Sewing Pattern

Divide overall grade by 4 to get allocated grade. Compare your measurements to the patterns.


Grading Down The Pleated Playsuit Pattern Playsuit Pattern Pleated Pants Pattern Pants Pattern Free

Pattern grading puts you in the drivers seat giving you the ability to adjust the sizing of a pattern while keeping the garment and its features intact.

How to grade down a sewing pattern. Draw straight lines at each corner connecting the three pattern sizes and extending beyond them. Establish overall grade difference between patterns measurements and body measurements. Grading up to 3 size differences is easy and above that is totally possible with the right techniques.

This is not so with the Belcarra. Similarly if you overlap all those pieces slightly you get a smaller pattern. Follow the steps for the other pattern pieces as well and then you are done.

Say if youre a 12 bust 14 waist and 16 hip or a 28 bust 26 waist and 26 hip. When you grade a pattern you are creating the same style in another size - EVERY measurement point is changed following a strict formula to maintain the same fit and proportion in each new size. Grading a pattern and altering a pattern are two very different things.

This is where making a muslin of your graded up pattern will come in handy. Pattern grading most simply put is the proportional increase or decrease in the size of a pattern. Making the grade.

NB- Often vintage patterns are single sized only. Whether you want to take a beloved pattern up or down a size or two or you want to create a small line of clothing pattern grading is an important tool. Pattern Shifting The process of manually grading by shifting a pattern back and forth to increase or decrease its size.

This is known as slash and spread grading and it looks like the diagram below. This tutorial is in cm but you can work just as well in inches. In this scenario I wouldnt feel comfortable just cutting out one size.

Grading between sizes is crucial if you are a different size at your bust waist andor hip. Grading isnt so bad let us show you lets get started. Historically the science of grading went hand-in-hand with the advent of commercial patterns and the mass-production of pattern-built.

Take your bust waist and hip measurements then compare to the vintage pattern size guide. Cut and Spread Cut and Overlap The process of manually grading a sewing pattern by cutting the pattern apart and increasing or decreasing its size. Determine how much you need to grade your pattern by.

Once youve traced off your pattern the next step is to determine the size of your grade or how much you need to increase your pattern by. When you alter a pattern you change only some parts of the pattern. With the Hazel youll notice that the increments between the upper sizes are larger than the smaller ones.

A few ladies told me that Itch to Stitchs patterns dont come in their sizes some are smaller and some are la. The simplest explanation of pattern grading is that if you cut a pattern apart and then move all the pieces slightly away from each other you make a sewing pattern bigger. I find the easiest way to do this is by setting ruler on the pattern lines and drawing a line out to your selected measurement going up every 12 1 inch or so all the way around the pattern piece angling my ruler as I go along to follow the pattern lines.

Or if youve ever found yourself sifting through Joanns pattern cabinets only to find a pattern. This distributes overall grade among four parts of body or pattern left. Were going to start off with the basics by learning how to grade a basic bodice.

How to Grade a Pattern Up or Down a Size or Two Have you fallen in love with a pattern only to find that it doesnt come in your size. Instead I would opt to grade between the three sizes. This pattern grading tutorial is going to help you if you got your lovely hands on a vintage pattern that did not have the correct size in the envelope.

The purpose of grading is to fit a range of body types. You may start with a size 10 pattern. Then shift the pattern outwards by from the bottom right corner edge Trace the rest of the pattern Neaten up the edges and now you have a smaller bodice front pattern.

Table As you can see this would put me in XS for the bust M for the waist and S for the hip. When you are between the pattern sizes you can measure in increments to fit your size at different points on the pattern and slope your ruler to fit. Draw the new pattern piece shifting the pattern to meet the red line at the corners toward the inside for size 4 in blue here or toward the exterior for size 12 in green.

The purpose of grading is to fit a. For the width of the armhole you want to expand it by adding to it from the side seam without tampering with the inner part of the curve. For example if your bust is a size 8 your waist is closer to a 10 and your hips are a 12.

Lay the pattern piece on some pattern paper Im using the bodice front and trace the centre bottom edges. Using your ruler measure the increments between sizes. In this tutorial we have decided to grade the pattern up by 2 sizes and will add 34 inch 2cm to the specified seams.

Once you understand it youll be able to take your sewing to the next level. Purchased a used sewing pattern without the correct sizeNo matter whether you need to learn how to scale a pattern up or down the same principle I share in the video applies.


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